Turning a sharp corner on a waistband

I don’t proclaim expert status on anything to do with sewing, but sometimes I get asked about a particular thing and thought documenting my processes might be helpful - not least to me when I can’t remember what I’m doing. So this little series aims to tap into that. You can find this and other techniques in the Library under Finesse!

There are many many ways to turn a corner when sewing a waistband and many many tutorials across the web showing the ‘correct’ or ‘best’ or ‘fool-proof’ way to do it. This is possibly an unnecessary addition to that litany of advice but I claim it to be none of those and just one way I try to finesse the finish of my garments.

Everyone has their own techniques that work for them - most of the time. I have had my fair share of bulky, round, funny-angled, pushed-out, fraying and generally best-not-to-look-at-it waistband situations and over time I have found that the process detailed below consistently gets the best results.

And the satisfaction gained from a particular sewing technique turning out as well as it possibly could is never to be underestimated.

Give it a go, let me know what you think and if there are any improvements you would suggest!

Oh, and please excuse the state of my nails!

One: Trim

After you have stitched the end of the waistband (or cuff etc), as is most widely done when turning, trim the corner you are going to turn to reduce bulk - especially with something like corduroy which is used here.

Notice that there is still a decent amount of corner left untrimmed; at least a quarter of an inch / half a centimetre. This is to ensure you have a robust corner that doesn’t blow out, has enough structure to maintain a nice point and also so you have enough fabric to grab hold of in step four below.

Incidentally, the marked line I stitched along was used to line up the waistband with the (in this case) fly to ensure it is at a 90 degree angle to the top of the waistband.

Two: Fold

Fold over the corner exactly along the stitching line you have just sewn and trimmed.

In this case the waistband is folded in half so there is no top seam. If there are two seams, i.e. along the top and end of the waistband, both should be trimmed as in step one above and then folded along the stitching line as shown. Folding them (and pressing - see below) individually is usually easier.

Three: Press

Watching your fingers, use your iron to press exactly where you have folded, right on the corner. See pressed corner in the picture below.

Four: Turn

Take the very point of the corner you have pressed, with the side to which you have folded the fabric under your thumb. Gripping very firmly, turn it to the right side. Keep tight hold of it and wiggle it into position as far as you can using the bulk left at the corner to assist you in pushing the fabric out, rather than your nail or thumb.

Sometimes you can get it all the way out without doing the next step. That results in big beams of smug!

Five: Wiggle

This is where I aim not to poke and prod into the corner. Using my highly technical turning tool (chopstick - I have got a proper turner somewhere but this is actually better for this purpose), I put the long edge of the tool against the end seam of the waistband.

This is where the fabric left in the corner really comes into its own. I try to find that and with the end of the tool right in the corner, but not pushing into it, I push sideways along the end seam, rather than straight into the corner. With some gentle wiggling you can get the corner out, without creating that horrible bulge.

You can also manipulate on the outside with your fingers. I kind of rub together like I’m trying to open a thin plastic bag!

Done!

Give it good press …

Finished - isn’t it pretty! I

t’s possible. Even by me. Even in corduroy.