A floral Victoria Blazer
So, Caroline at Blackbird Fabrics sources some pretty fabulous fabric. Beautiful quality, interesting fibres (including hard to source tencel) and such a lovely range of prints. This is a rayon twill of which it seems pretty much every person in sewing blog land has some.
I've had it for a while, quite a long while without really knowing what I would do with it. First it was destined to be an enormous mid-calf circle skirt, then a Saiph Tunic (as Caroline herself made - isn't it fabulous), then some Suzy Pants like these and then back to the circle skirt. But you know when nothing comes of the plans that you're not fully committed to it.
Then shortly after writing the blog post about my last Victoria Blazer and looking through my Pinterest inspiration boards, I decided a large scale floral casual jacket was absolutely the way forward. And thus it was done.
I added a couple of inches to the length, but other than that made no changes to my original version.
It was with a huge sigh of relief I pulled this chartreuse striped silk out of my stash to use for the lining. I've had it for eons and cannot fathom what possessed me to buy it - too shiny, too daiphanous, too little of it and too well, too chartreuse. But perfect for this jacket - despite all the too's it does feel delicious as a lining.
And then, using Sonja's tips from her perfect rendition of this pattern, I decided to line the sleeves as well as I'm not sold on the unlined sleeve that the pattern is designed with. There wasn't enough of the eye-blinding silk to line the sleeves as well so they are made from scraps of black silk habutai.
Large scale florals are "awesome but overwhelming if allowed to dominate and therefore need to be kept in check by some contrast" (to quote no-one but that kind of statement feels like it should be in speech marks ...) so I used the last remnants of some beautiful black wool crepe from this dress for the collar, lapels and cuffs.
The silk and wool, really make it feel luxurious and definitely have the air of some kind of decadent sumptuous smoking jacket rather than a blazer which really brings to mind something more structured.
Having made this twice now, it is a really lovely pattern and does sew together very quickly and I'm really happy with the fit across the shoulders, my only hesitation is that it is very difficult to attach the lining to the main fabric at the hem without it bubbling. Even with hanging it on my dress form and carefully pinning it, it still doesn't hang completely straight. Perhaps this would be fixed with a facing or something at the hemline instead?
I also wish there was a way to avoid the the line of stitching that finishes the cuff as I think it would be nicer if it was clean - especially in this lovely crepe.
I'm glad I finally plumped to use this fabric from a jacket. It makes a statement but is also really comfortable and easy to wear and I think it will work both for summer and winter. I love it with my waxed jeans as here, but also think it would look great with this dress and another dress that I've just finished that I'll be posting soon. Also blue jeans and a tank could work too.
Sorry for the less than inspiring words today, chronic hay fever and a vomitous just turned three year old are sapping the last of my creativity. I've been trying to write about this for weeks; it's possible I might be all out of words for jackets as well considering this is the fifth I've made / blogged about in the last few months.
Perhaps for once I should just have let the pics do the talking
See you soon x
This is exactly what I have been looking for. Square shouldered, unfitted, lined, below hip level with long lapels and a single button.