So, how much longer do we think statement sleeves are going to be a thing? I’m making so many tops and dresses with amazing sleeves at the moment, but worry that this limits the longevity of elements of my wardrobe, which is never my intention.

Puffy sleeves in the 80s were a thing for maybe 4 or 5 years. We’re a couple of years into their resurgence so how long do we give them? I love that fashion is cyclical, and I love how when a trend reappears it morphs into something else - something that in the new moment seems refined, improved on.

But how much should we dive into it before we end up with a wardrobe that is redundant in a relatively short period of time. Or is that just the way things are?

If we didn’t do that, would there be fashion?

Whoa.

That’s a) unfathomable and b) way too much overly pretentious thinking for right now.

Statement sleeves in the 80s - the epitome for me being the Gigot or Leg of Mutton - were all about enhancing the shoulder. The most famous example of this of course being that wedding dress (the line about the dress needing a good press made me laugh). As a complete diversion I really didn’t like the actor who played Diana in the latest series of “The Crown - her hair was all wrong for a start!

I see Gigot sleeves as a more feminine alternative to the much maligned, but often actually kinda fun shoulder pad. Says the woman naturally blessed/ cursed with some serious shoulders, who at the age of 13 went to a birthday party in an entirely fuchsia and black ensemble consisting of tucker boots, a polka dot ra-ra skirt and a polyester satin top and peplum jacket BOTH of which had shoulder pads.

I thought I looked goddamn amazing.

Although the double shoulder pad thing was a little tricky to navigate as a newly minted teen and the boots might have been red - major clash faux pas in 1988.

That was a huge detour. The point is that now the mega-sleeve thing is much softer and less abrasive; more Spandau Ballet ‘New Romantic’ than Joan Cusack ‘Working Girl’ and it definitely has a more casual vibe. The bigger being better thing is clearly not a part of our 21st century / pandemic lives.

(Another aside: Working Girl is one of the best movies of all time and the intro with the aerial views of NYC accompanied by ‘Let the River Run’ is just perfection.)

Despite being conflicted about the sustainability of certain trends, I am also fully on board the wow-sleeve train and my latest iteration of said trend, is this number.

I think I saw an Anthropologie dress that was the inspiration. It was made in a double gauze - which would have been perfect - but alas none in this colour to be found. Instead I have this lovely, light but opaque crinkle linen from my favourite purveyor of gorgeous fabric; The Fabric Store.

I’m unsure that this is a good colour on me, but it’s a departure from my predominantly blue / white palette, which I think is a good thing.

The pattern is McCalls 7974 and pretty much a replica of the Anthro dress. It’s really pretty - although the pattern envelope doesn’t do it justice at all. I love the neckline which is low enough to give full benefit of the décolletage, but still totally bra friendly and not too boobs-in-your-face. The skirt is made of a few panels and is really lovely and full. However, I feel that McCalls could have drafted the sleeves with more volume, it would make for a much more dramatic and interesting dress. What they have created feels a bit, I don’t know, meagre.

I made a few changes to get the look I wanted - mainly just adding length and width to the sleeves to move away from meagre:

Added:

2 inches to the skirt length (of the midi skirt variation)
A total of 2 inches to the front bodice - 1 inch above the bust gathers and 1 inch on the midriff and therefore 2 inches to the back bodice
I added 1 inch in length and 5 inches in width to the upper sleeve - using the slash and spread method.
And then 6 inches in width and 2 inches in length to the lower sleeve in the same way.
I omitted the sleeve stay on the lower sleeve. I’m not entirely sure of its purpose and didn’t want to add extra bulk to the sleeve - I wanted it to be a bit more light and airy - especially with all the extra fabric I was adding anyway. If you were making this out of a less drapey fabric, the sleeve stay would be awesome as would add real structure.
And of course the half inch forward shoulder adjustment (bored of me mentioning that yet?!)

I used French seams throughout and managed to not get a single one backwards. This is a major achievement (my subsequent project is a reminder of how many times I have had to unpick French seams.) I even French seamed the side seam pockets and found a technique I like for this but now can’t remember where I saw it.

The trickiest bit was Button Saga. Oh Button Saga.

I spent an entire day scouring the Garment District for buttons that would work with this. I wanted some the same colour and with a shank. Could not find a thing. Then I decided that I would do covered buttons instead. I still think that would have looked best. Eventually I found some very cheap, matte plastic domed buttons - I think they were 8 for a dollar - that are a weird peachy colour and took them home to cover them. I have an irrational hatred of those covered button kits you can get. They never EVER work.

I also spent a not insignificant amount of time covering them. Then made 15 buttonholes. Then realised I hadn’t accounted for the added thickness the fabric would add to the button size. That plus the dome shape meant there was no way in hell those carefully crafted buttons would be going through those carefully crafted button holes.

It was late one night at this point, and I’d had enough, so I cut all the carefully covered covering off and just sewed the many many weird, cheapy, peachy coloured buttons on to the front of this dress and called it good. And actually they work - size, shape and tonally. Sometimes good things do happen when you’re done overthinking the thing that didn’t work.

(That sentence could potentially be my mantra - I am the queen of overthinking. Everything.)

Added to the Button Saga and Sleeve Dilemma was a Major Shoe Situation (desperate lack of appropriate footwear) to deal with, and you’d think this dress would never see the light of day, but I’ll find some shoes eventually and it’s a pretty dress and I think I’m going to love wearing it.

Tell me your thoughts on our current obsession with all things sleeve.

See you soon xx

ps: It’s almost roof season! Woop!

Statement Sleeves and McCalls 7974